Garden Checklist for May
Gardening is really getting started this month. Here's a list for your monthly job jar.
•Plant strawberries as soon as possible.
•Harden off flower and vegetable transplants before planting.
•Aerate the lawn to reduce thatch buildup.
•Control weeds before they go to seed.
•Sharpen the lawn mower blade for a clean cut.
•Correctly identify pest problems before trying to control them.
•Apply fertilizer and lime to your lawn and garden based on the results of a soil test.
•Prune spring-flowering shrubs as the flowers fade.
•Enjoy some scallions fresh from the garden.
•Many herbs including chives, parsley, and thyme are also well-suited to baskets.
•Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials.
•Floating row cover will protect newly planted vegetables from flea beetles and other flying insects.
•Mow the lawn at a height of 2 1/2 to 3 inches while never removing more than one-third of the leaf blade. Leave the clippings on the ground.
•Test the germination for last year's leftover vegetable seeds before planting them.
•Water the lawn deeply, applying a half to one inch of water at a time. Your lawn needs one inch per week during dry periods.
•Apply broadleaf herbicides to control weeds in the lawn.
•Check your lawn for turfgrass insect pests and apply the correct control according to label directions.
•Remove flowers from newly established June-bearing strawberry plantings. Let them become established this year and form fruit next year.
•Remove seed stalks from rhubarb as soon as you see them. Harvest rhubarb through early June.
•Harvest mature asparagus beds for six to eight weeks only.
•Replenish the mulch around your landscape plants after the soil warms at the end of the month.
•Direct seed cabbage, collard greens, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts for fall crops.
•Lift and divide old chrysanthemum plants or set out new plants purchased or grown from cuttings. Pinch back mums when they are about six inches tall for bushier plants.
•Continue to pinch back the mums until mid July.
•Plant gladiolus corms every two weeks for continuous bloom.
•Remove daffodil and tulip flowers as they fade, but leave the foliage in place until it turns brown and dies. Dig bulbs for storage after the leaves die.
•Plant dahlia and canna tubers mid to late May.
•Mow the lawn when it needs it, wet or not.
•Control euonymus scale now before their hard shells form.
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Basil
Basil is one of the most popular herbs grown in the world. It is native to Asia and can be found growing wild in tropical and subtropical regions of the world. Because of its popularity , we often call basil the "king of the herbs. "
Its botanical name derived from the Greek meaning "to be fragrant." In the 1600's, the English used basil as a flavoring in their food and as an insecticide. Italians used basil as the sign of love. In India, Hindus believed that if a leaf of basil was buried with them, it would get them into heaven, thus the popularity of holy basil. In America, basil has been grown for more than 200 years.
Basil has many uses. As a fresh herb, it is used to flavor foods such as vegetables, poultry, and fish. It is famous for use in Italian dishes such as pesto. Basil is commonly preserved in vinegar or olive oil and adds a delightful flavor to both for salad dressings. It is also used for flavor in jelly, honey, tea, and liquor. Basil can also be used dried. The flowers of basil are edible and can be an attractive addition to salads and other dishes.
Basil is an aromatic herb and is often used in potpourri and sachets. The cosmetic industry uses basil oil in lotion, shampoo, perfume, and soap. As an ornamental in the flower garden, basil has attractive foliage and flowers.
Basil is grown as an annual in the Cleveland area. It can be grown easily from seed. Start seed indoors 4 or 5 weeks before the last frost date. Or, direct seed after all danger of frost is past in late May. It does not tolerate cold temperatures. A light frost ends the growing season. Plant in full sun and avoid heavy nitrogen fertilization. Too much nitrogen affects oil content and flavor. To harvest, remove terminal growth whenever four sets of true leaves can be left on the plant. This encourages bushier growth and increased yields. For best foliage flavor, cut before flowering. Leaf flavor changes after flowers open.
Basil is a member of the mint family. More than 150 different species and varieties are available. Sweet and Genovese varieties are recommended for Italian cooking and pesto. For more information, see the OSU Extension Basil fact sheet.
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Bean Root Rot
Root rots, damping-off before and after seedling emergence, and seed rots are destructive diseases of green, snap, lima, and dry beans. These diseases are caused primarily by soilborne fungi. Significant losses may occur to susceptible varieties, especially if cool, wet weather conditions prevail for the first few weeks after seeding and then are followed by hot, dry weather.
Disease incidence and severity often vary greatly, even in areas with a history of root rot. In the same growing season, it is not uncommon to lose a crop completely and then re-seed and experience no problems. This situation results from changes in biological, environmental, and soil conditions. Since there are no commercially acceptable resistant varieties, growers should learn how to recognize these diseases and use a combination of management practices to minimize potential losses.
First, do not grow beans or other susceptible crops continually in the same location. Continuous cropping of susceptible plants will eventually lead to a buildup of these fungi in the soil. Since they are capable of long-term survival, a rotation of 4-5 years is desirable. Avoid planting beans in fields known to be heavily infested with bean root-rot fungi.
Second, plant beans only on well-drained soils or try to improve drainage.
Third, delay planting until the soil is warm (above 65 F) and seed shallow to insure rapid emergence. Avoid planting seeds too close together. Follow instructions on the seed packet. Do not overfertilize, especially with nitrogen.
Fourth, fungicide-treated seeds can help with this problem. Some bean seeds are treated before packaging and are colored pink. Otherwise, check with your local garden center for an appropriate product.
For more information, see the OSU Extension Fact Sheet Damping-off and Root Rot of Beans.
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Earthworms in Lawns
The activity of earthworms, especially "night crawlers" can contribute to a rough and bumpy lawn surface. Another "problem" associated with earthworms is the movement of large numbers to places where they are unwanted (such as, on sidewalks or patios, and in swimming pools).
Earthworms are beneficial and valuable to the overall health and tilth of the lawn. Their activity improves the growing environment by increasing air and water movement in the soil and they help decompose thatch. They also help alleviate compaction.
Various lawn care practices can help reduce the problem of a bumpy lawn. Bumpiness in sparse, thin lawns will be less noticeable if a healthy thick turf is reestablished through reseeding with turfgrass suited to the site, and through proper fertilization mowing and irrigation.
Mechanical means to reduce bumpiness will be necessary to eliminate existing roughness. Core aerating will break down some of the bumps in the lawn. Roughness accumulates over several years and it should be gradually removed instead of all at once.
Use of a heavy roller is not recommended. While rolling may remove some roughness, it also damages the turf by compacting the soil. Compacted soil reduces turfgrass vigor and eventually leads to a thinner lawn.
Although rough bumpy lawns and earthworms on the driveway are annoying, destruction of earthworms in not advised.
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Do Bugs Freeze in the Winter?
Antifreeze is an alcohol and resists freezing even at very low temperatures. When antifreeze mixes with other liquids, it keeps them from freezing as fast. That's why we put antifreeze in car engines to keep the water there from turning to ice and breaking the engine block. Bugs make their own antifreeze. The shorter, colder days of early fall let insects know that it's time to conserve energy stores for the long winter ahead. When insects burn fewer energy stores, a sweet, sticky alcohol called glycerol builds up in their bodies. Glycerol works like car antifreeze and resists freezing even in extreme cold. So when it mixes around inside an insect's body, the whole insect becomes more freeze-resistant. Some insects even tolerate temperatures far below zero.
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Crickets
Crickets occasionally invade homes and become a pest by their presence. Homeowners complain of their monotonous chirping, which can be annoying at night. Indoors, some crickets can feed on a wide variety of fabrics, foods and paper products. Cotton, linen, wool, rayon, nylon, silk and furs are susceptible, along with soiled fabrics, sizing from wallpaper, glue from bookbindings, fruit, vegetables, meat and even other crickets. An occasional cricket or two in or around the home usually presents no serious problem. However, large populations may congregate around lights at night, causing a problem for the homeowner.
Crickets resemble longhorned grasshoppers. They get their name from the high-pitched sound or "chirp" produced when the male rubs his front wings together to attract a female. Different kinds of crickets can be identified by their songs.
Sanitation is the most important means of eliminating nuisance crickets. Keep all areas in and around buildings free of moisture, dense vegetation and weeds. Remove piles of bricks, stones, rotting wood and other debris. Caulk and seal all cracks and crevices, especially near the ground level at basement windows and doorways.
Make sure that all windows and doors are tight-fitting with proper screening in place. Avoid bright mercury vapor lights in entryways and along structure perimeters since crickets will be attracted from far distances. Convert to sodium vapor yellow lights which are less attractive to insects instead of the white, neon or mercury vapor lights.
Never store firewood next to the house foundation. Raise garbage cans off the ground if practical. Crickets can be killed with a fly swatter, collected by vacuum cleaner or broom and dustpan and discarded, if a few are present.
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Snap Beans
Beans are one of America's favorite garden vegetables. Early bean varieties were stringy, hence the term "string" bean. Modern varieties are stringless, tender, and crisp. Since they snap easily, these new varieties are referred to as snap beans. Snap beans may be classified as bush or pole beans. The bush-type beans are low growing plants that may grow 1 to 2 feet in height. Pole beans are vining plants which must be supported by a fence or stakes.
Snap beans are warm-season vegetables and should be planted after the danger of frost is past. The last frost in our area is typically occurs around May 18. Bean seeds should be planted 1 to 1-1/2 inches deep. When planting bush varieties, space rows 2 feet apart with seeds spaced 1 to 2 inches apart within the row. After the seedlings emerge, thin bush snap beans to 3 to 4 inches between plants. Plant bush varieties every 2 or 3 weeks up to August 1 for a continuous harvest. Pole beans may be planted in rows spaced 2 to 3 feet apart with the vines supported by a trellis, fence, or rough poles. The support for pole beans should be approximately 6 to 8 feet tall. In the row, plant pole bean seeds 3 inches apart, later thin to 4 to 6 inches between plants. Pole beans may also be planted around poles fashioned into a tepee. Pole beans require a few more days to mature than bush varieties. However, they produce over a longer period.
Suggested bush snap bean varieties include 'Tendercrop,' 'Bush Blue Lake 274,' 'Topcrop,', 'Provider,' and 'Derby.' 'Blue Lake,' 'Kentucky Blue,' and 'Romano' are excellent pole bean varieties.
Snap beans should be harvested frequently and thoroughly. Leaving mature pods on the plant will decrease yields. The bean plant will divert much of its energy into seed development rather than additional crop production. Harvest snap beans when the pods are young, firm, and the seeds are small. For more information, see OSU Extension fact sheet on snap beans .
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Moss Phlox
Creeping Phlox or Moss Phlox is a very effective ground cover when this plant is grown in a sunny site on a well-drained soil. Particularly gritty soils are ideal, which may be slightly alkaline. Flower color ranges from red-purple to violet-purple, pink, or white. The mass of bright flowers is a very welcome sight in the spring after a long winter. Shearing the plants back halfway following flowering will promote dense foliage and some rebloom. Propagation is by layering or division after flowering or late fall cuttings rooted in a sandy medium in a greenhouse or cold frame. The root system is shallow and sparse; consequently, the foliage should be cut back before the divisions are replanted.
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Apple Scab
Rain and temperatures between 58 and 62 degrees sounds like a typical weather forecast during many of our spring days. For the fungal disease known as apple scab, that weather is perfect. Perfect, that is, for infecting susceptible varieties of apples. If you have a home orchard, don't waste any time in applying fungicides to control this disease that infects both foliage and fruit. Read and follow label directions carefully.
If you're considering planting apples, choose from those cultivars that are scab resistant, and free yourself from this fungicide application. Scab resistant apple cultivars include: Prima, Priscilla, SirPrize, Freedom, Liberty, Jonafree, Enterprise, Goldrush, Redfree, Pristine, Williams Pride, Novamac, and Nova Easygro. For more details on apple scab and its control, see "Scab of Apple".
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Controlling Dandelions
There are two times during the year in which herbicides are most effective in controlling dandelions: in the spring when the dandelions are in an early bloom stage, and in the fall, when the plants are moving food reserves into the over-wintering rootstock. The fall period is the recommended time because of reduced chances for injury to other plants. Another advantage of controlling weeds in the fall is because it gives the turf a longer opportunity to fill in the bare spots. In the spring, homeowners have to be careful about making the application too early. Early in the spring the plant is moving food to the new leaves and not to the root. Therefore, the application will result in dead leaves, but the root will live and regrows The same thing can happen if too much herbicide is applied. Correct application is important. Read and follow label directions on herbicides and pesticides exactly!
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Siberian Irises
A great characteristic about Siberian irises is that after their blossoms of blue, violet, lilac, pale yellow, white, pink or reddish pink have faded, the plants' upright clumps of narrow, arching, bright green foliage remains handsome until heavy frost lays them flat.
Siberian irises are hardy from USDA Zones 4 to 10, and they prefer an acid to neutral soil well enriched with humus. They need ample moisture, and though they will thrive in situations drier than the marshy areas that the species inhabits in the wild, they must be watered deeply during dry spells.
Siberian irises prefer full sun but will bloom in lightly dappled shade. When the clumps become crowded and flower production falls off, divide them in late summer or fall. In contrast to their lovely but demanding cousins, the bearded irises, Siberian irises are relatively untroubled by pests and diseases.
Siberian irises are spectacular for fresh flower bouquets by themselves or combined with other perennial and annual flowers. Some showy cultivars to consider are: 'Rejoice Always', 'Ewen', 'Red Passion', 'Butter and Sugar', 'Shirley Pope', and 'Fourfold White'.
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Tent Caterpillars
From late April to early June you may see apple, crab apple, wild plum, and related trees "decorated" with the silken tents of the eastern tent caterpillar. The larvae gather at a major branch fork and construct a dirty-gray silk web or tent. The caterpillars leave the tent to feed on tree buds and foliage on warm, sunny days. At night and on cool, cloudy days the caterpillars rest in the protective confines of the tent. As the caterpillars feed and grow, they enlarge the tents, making them more obvious in the landscape and along roadsides.
Damage by eastern tent caterpillars is more annoying than harmful. Defoliated trees usually recover with a new flush of leaves in June. The appearance of the web, more than the defoliation, is often the major concern.
The most practical control is usually to remove by hand the tents and caterpillars as soon as they are noticed. Remove the tents in very early morning or at night when the caterpillars are occupying the tents. The caterpillars and the silk are harmless to people. Discard the tent away from the tree or dispose in the trash or by burying. Insecticide sprays are rarely necessary. For more information, see the OSU Extension fact sheet on tent caterpillars.
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Greens
Many gardeners are now beginning to enjoy the rewards of early spring planting. Lettuce, beet tops, mustard greens, spinach, and turnip tops are just a few of the leafy greens that will be harvested by gardeners this month. Many greens grow best in cool weather and mature in a relatively short amount of time. Most greens can be planted just as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring or in early to mid-August for a fall crop. Successive plantings can extend the harvest season.
Harvest the outer leaves of leaf lettuce as soon as they enlarge to 4 to 6 inches. The leaves on the inside will continue to develop.
Beets and turnips serve a dual purpose. Tops can be used during the thinning process while the remainder of the plants are left to develop into a root crop for later enjoyment. If only the tops are desired, seeds can be scattered in a corner of the flowerbed or garden and used as soon as they are 4 to 6 inches tall. The tops of these vegetables are an excellent source of vitamins A and C, B vitamins, and calcium.
Mustard greens mature quickly and are best planted in early spring or fall. Warm, long days will cause the plant to go to seed. Harvest before the leaves are fully grown for best flavor. Spinach will also go to seed quickly during long days. Plants are best grown in early spring or late summer for a fall crop. Harvest as soon as leaves are 6 to 8 inches long and allow the center of the plant to continue producing.
Greens that like warm temperatures include New Zealand spinach, swiss chard, collards and kale. Harvest New Zealand spinach as succulent leaves and young stem tips. Swiss chard is harvested by removing the large, outer leaves as they reach 8 to 10 inches long. The center of the plant continues to produce for an extended harvest. Collards will tolerate both heat and cold. Harvest the young tender outer leaves and the central plant will continue producing. Kale is harvested similarly to collards. The flavor of both collards and kale is improved by frost. Sow more collard and kale seeds by August 1 for a fall crop.
Most greens can be stored for up to two weeks in the refrigerator. After washing, place the produce in perforated plastic bags to maintain humidity.
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Dodder
Dodder or strangle-weed is an annual parasitic plant. Because it lacks chlorophyll, the plant is a yellowish color. The lack of chlorophyll also means it cannot produce any food, thus it produces small suckers that attach to a host plant in order to take the nutrition it needs for growth. It appears to be a stringy mess because of its narrow, twining stems and leaves that have been reduced to thread-like scales. Numerous, compact, white flowers appear in late summer. The 2-celled fruit capsules burst open to release 2 to 4 seeds, which is the only way the plant reestablishes itself each year. Seeds germinate on the soil surface in early spring. The resulting plant is a 2 - 4 inch long thread-like plant with a small root system. Once this plant attaches itself to a (host) plant the root system disappears and the dodder becomes completely dependent on its host.
Unfortunately, there is little that can be done once this plant has wrapped itself around its host plant, especially if its your prized flower or some other desirable ornamental or herb. Pulling the dodder from its host is often futile and usually results in the stripping of the green leaves, branches, and stem tips of the ornamental. However, if you want to prevent seed production, this type of control is necessary and must be done before the dodder produces flowers and seeds.
Chemical control is extremely limited because of dodder's parasitic nature. Keep a close watch on your garden plants and remove any plants that become infested with dodder as soon as possible.
Dodder seeds are fairly long-lived in the soil, so do not expect elimination of this weed in one year, unless you prevent seed production the first year it infests an area. A few weeds in a landscape are often tolerated, but if it's dodder, relying on your ornamentals for its food, it needs to be controlled quickly.
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Rhubarb
The harvest of rhubarb stalks is going strong now. It's necessary to remember that the leaves of rhubarb contain oxalic acid and soluble oxalates. Eating rhubarb leaves can cause nausea, vomiting, abdominal pains, and even death. Here are a few commonly asked questions on rhubarb.
Do the rhubarb stalks become poisonous by summer?
It is generally recommended that home gardeners stop harvesting rhubarb in early to mid-June. Continued harvest through the summer months would weaken the plants and reduce the yield and quality of next year's crop. The rhubarb stalks may become somewhat woody by mid-summer, but they don't become poisonous.
Is it safe to harvest rhubarb if the plant is flowering?
While the flower or seed stalks should not be used, the leaf stalks are edible. However, the flower stalks should be promptly pulled and discarded. If allowed to develop, the flower stalks reduce plant's vigor and next year's production. Flower stalk formation may be caused by drought, infertile soils, and extreme heat. Age may be another factor. Old plants tend to flower more than young ones. Flower formation can be discouraged with good cultural practices. Water rhubarb plants once a week during dry weather. Sprinkle 1/2 cup of an all purpose garden fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, around each plant in early spring. Manure is an alternative to a commercial fertilizer. Apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of well-rotted manure around rhubarb plants in spring. Dig and divide large, old rhubarb plants in early spring or late summer.
Are rhubarb leaves safe to put into the compost pile?
While the rhubarb leaves do contain some poisonous chemicals, they can be used in the compost pile. Oxalic acid and soluble oxalates are not readily absorbed by the roots of plants. Compost containing decomposed rhubarb leaves can be safely worked into the soil of vegetable gardens.
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Wild Mushrooms
The warming weather of April and May causes some people to venture outdoors on mushroom seeking missions. Morel hunting is especially popular at this time of year. The morel season usually lasts about 4-5 weeks.
Anyone gathering and eating wild mushrooms should exercise extreme caution.
1.Be absolutely sure of the identity of each specimen collected. Some mushroom species are deadly poisonous.
2.Don't eat excessive amounts even though you are sure of the identity. Certain individuals might become sick (possibly an allergic reaction) after eating a mushroom that is considered edible.
Mushrooms can also spoil very easily, especially if collected in plastic bags and left unrefrigerated. It is best to wrap each mushroom in dry paper toweling or in paper sacks and refrigerate if they are to be kept overnight.
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Gladiolus
Gladioli are popular summer-flowering plants. They are valued for their long flower spikes which are excellent as cut flowers. The individual flowers bloom successively from the base to the top of the spike. Flower colors include white and shades of yellow, pink, red, and purple. Many flowers have brightly colored throats. The foliage is sword-shaped.
While often classified as bulbs, gladioli are actually corms. The structure is an enlarged underground stem. Gladioli are relatively easy to grow, but cannot be counted on to survive the cold Ohio winter outdoors. The corms should be dug in late summer or fall, dried and stored indoors during the winter months.
Glads should be planted after the danger of frost is past, about mid-May in our area. Make successive plantings every 2 weeks for continuous bloom throughout the summer. The final planting should be made in early July. When purchasing glads, select corms 1-1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. They will produce large, attractive flower spikes. Smaller corms will produce foliage, but may not bloom. Planting depth varies with the size of the corms. Large corms should be planted 4 to 6 inches deep and 6 inches apart. Small corms should be planted at a depth of 3 inches. Glads require well-drained soils and perform best in a sunny location. Plants normally bloom about 8 to 10 weeks after planting.
Gladioli require little special care during the growing season. Control weeds by frequent shallow cultivation or by mulching. Water weekly during hot, dry weather. A 5-10-5 fertilizer may be applied as a sidedressing about a month after planting. Staking will be required in windy, exposed areas. For more information, see OSU Extension fact sheet on summer flowering bulbs.
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Growing the Great Pumpkin
Few vegetables have the ability to grow to the enormous sizes of pumpkins and squashes. The size of world champion pumpkins is staggering. Giant pumpkins have been recorded with a circumference of greater than 10 feet or weight of over one thousand pounds. While attaining a half-ton jack-o-lantern may not be your goal, growing giant pumpkins is certainly fun for many gardeners. With proper cultivar selection and care, growing giant pumpkins can be rewarding.
Selecting the right cultivar for planting is of the utmost importance. The cultivar name is often a dead giveaway to its ultimate size. Select cultivars such as 'Dill's Atlantic Giant', 'Prizewinner', 'Big Max', or 'Big Moon'. Some of these varieties are not actually pumpkins at all but pumpkin-like squash. These giant pumpkin cultivars are also not normally suitable for cooking.
As with any planting, selecting and preparing the planting site is critical. Make sure the site is in full sun with well-drained soil. Prepare the soil by adding a generous amount of well-rotted manure mixed with the garden soil. Pumpkins require a long growing season and warm soils. Seeds can be started indoors two to three weeks before the last expected frost or directly seeded into the garden after the danger of frost has past. Two or three seeds are planted in each hill or pot. Later when the first true leaves appear, thin to one plant per pot or hill. If you start the seeds indoors, be sure to harden the seedlings to outdoor conditions for a week before planting.
For giant pumpkins, be sure to provide ample space for growth. Twenty to twenty-five feet between plants is not uncommon for world champion pumpkins. As the pumpkins grow, a consistent supply of water and fertilizer is essential. Pumpkin plants require one inch of water per week. Watering in the morning is best since it allows the foliage to dry during the day and thus prevent the possibility of disease. A weekly addition of a complete fertilizer is also needed. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers as they may inhibit flower initiation or fruit growth. There are as many fertilizer regimes as there are pumpkin varieties. Some individuals use high phosphorus fertilizers before and after flowering while others use organic-type fertilizers like bone meal and fish emulsion continuously.
When the baby pumpkins appear, select two or three fruits on separate runners on each plant. Remove all other fruits that forms. This ensures that all the vine's energy will go to the fruit left on the vine. The fruit will rapidly gain weight and size. It can be fun to take weekly measurements and record the progress. The trick is to keep the pumpkins growing for as long as possible.
With dedication and regular care you can grow giant pumpkins or squashes.
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Raspberry Care
Raspberry plants are relatively easy to grow. If given proper care, they are also very productive. Important raspberry cultural practices include fertilization, watering, and controlling weeds, insects, and diseases.
Established raspberries should be fertilized in the spring before new growth begins. Apply 4 to 5 pounds of 10-10-10 or a similar analysis fertilizer to each 100-foot row. Uniformly broadcast the fertilizer in a 2-foot band. If the raspberries are mulched with sawdust or wood chips, apply a slightly heavier rate (5 to 6 pounds of 10-10-10 per 100-foot row) of fertilizer. Do not fertilize raspberries in late spring or summer. Late spring or summer fertilization encourages succulent, late season growth which is susceptible to winter damage.
Composted manure may be used as an alternative to commercial fertilizers.
Adequate soil moisture levels are necessary throughout the growing season for good raspberry production. However, the most critical time for moisture is between and bloom and harvest. During fruit development, raspberries require 1 to 1-1/2 inches of water (either from rain or irrigation) per week. Insufficient moisture during this time may result in small, seedy berries.
Weed control in raspberries is necessary to reduce competition for water, nutrients, and sunlight. Cultivation and mulches are the most practical control measures for home gardeners. Cultivate the raspberry planting frequently during the spring and summer months. Small weed seedlings are relatively easy to destroy. Large weeds are more difficult . To prevent injury to the roots of the raspberry plants, don't cultivate deeper than 2 to 3 inches.
Mulches help to control weeds and conserve moisture. Possible mulching materials include straw, crushed corncobs, chopped cornstalks, sawdust, wood chips, lawn clippings, and shredded leaves. Good cultural practices should help prevent many insect and disease problems. For example, pruning and removal of the old fruiting canes immediately after the summer harvest removes potential disease inoculum. Also, maintaining red raspberries in a 1- to 2-foot-wide hedgerow helps insure good air circulation and penetration of sunlight. Narrow hedgerows dry quickly after a rain, discouraging disease development. Scout plants regularly to be aware of pest and disease problems. Follow label directions to apply pesticides as recommended..
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Zinnias
There are many varieties of Zinnia with widely varying heights and flower colors. They may be as short as six inches or as tall as three feet. The plants are spaced eight to twelve inches apart and flower colors can be any color except for blue. They are tolerant of all but wet soils and need exposure to full sun. Plants producing flowers with high centers surrounded by only one or two rows of petals should be discarded. Tall varieties may be pinched when young to encourage branching. Old flowers are removed to encourage continued flowering.
The seeds are usually planted directly into the garden. If planted indoors the seedlings become spindly, especially if started too early. The seed germinates in one to two weeks at temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees.
Zinnias are susceptible to a few diseases. Blight starts as reddish brown spots with graying centers. Dark brown cankers form on the stems and flowers are spotted or completely blighted. The disease is also called alternaria leaf spot.
Powdery mildew is found on zinnia, particularly late in the season. The disease causes a white to grayish powdery growth on the leaves. This disease will be controlled with applications of fungicides labeled for control of powdery mildew on zinnias.
Bacterial leaf spot causes reddish brown, angular spots on the leaves and can cause plants to die out by mid-August. No chemical control is listed for bacterial leaf spot.
Give your zinnias the best possible growing conditions. Space them carefully in well-drained soil that's properly fertilized in a sunny location. Water in the morning when necessary, or use soaker hoses or other means to water the soil without getting the foliage wet. Deadhead flowers to keep them blooming longer.
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Perennials for Dry Areas
In addition to providing color in the garden, perennials can also be used as solutions to problem spots in the home landscape. Many landscapes have hot, dry sites that are difficult for many perennials. Drought tolerant perennials are the perfect solution for these dry sites. Here are a few perennials that, once established in the garden, will tolerate or even thrive in dry conditions.
■Fernleaf Yarrow is a medium-sized perennial that grows approximately 3 to 4 feet tall with a 3 foot spread. This perennial has silver-gray, fern-like foliage and large, flat, yellow blooms in late spring to mid-summer. The blooms can be used for cut and dried flowers. Dried heads will retain color best if the flowers are cut before pollen has developed. Yarrow prefers conditions with full sun and dry soil.
■Artemisias are a large group of perennials with silvery-gray foliage and a high tolerance to hot, dry conditions. This perennial is grown mainly for its foliage, although some types produce small, ineffective flowers in summer. Artemisias are often used as a filler or as a complement to the pinks, lavenders, blues, yellows, and reds used in the garden.
■Threadleaf Coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata) provides a light, finely textured addition to the perennial garden. This perennial blooms late spring through late summer. It grows best in a dry, full sun situation. Coreopsis works well in the perennial garden or naturalized area.
■For a late summer bloom, try Russian Sage. The foliage is aromatic, finely dissected, and gray-white in color. This plant has an upright growth habit with a height and spread of 3 to 4 feet. The lavender-blue flowers appear on a spike that extends above the foliage. Russian sage grows well in full sun and well-drained soils. For the best growth and flowers, Russian sage should be cut back to within several inches of the ground in the spring. In addition, Russian sage should be protected for the first couple of winters after planting. This plant can be used as a filler in the perennial garden, and the gray stems provide winter interest.
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Asparagus Varieties
Traditional asparagus varieties, such as Mary Washington or Martha Washington, have male and female flowers on different plants. Female plants produce spears and also produce seed when the plant is in the fern stage. The production of seed diverts photosynthetic energy from spear production and reduces the yield of spears. The seeds fall to the ground and germinate, creating an undesirable asparagus-seedling weed problem in the field. Male plants yield more asparagus with no seeds produced while in the fern stage of growth.
In the late 1800s, Professor William J. Green (18), horticulturist at the Ohio Experiment Station found that male asparagus plants are about 50% more productive than female plants.
Today, we have new male hybrid varieties developed to enable the plant to expend its energy solely on spear production, without the production of seeds, thus increasing yields. Yields of these male hybrids have been 2 to 3 times that of the standard open-pollinated Mary Washington types as reported by several researchers across the U.S.
These male hybrids have tolerance to asparagus rust and Fusarium crown rot, two major fungus diseases that affect asparagus.
The New Jersey male hybrids have wide geographic adaptability and have yielded well in several variety trials across the U.S. Some of the more popular New Jersey male hybrids include Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight, and Jersey Gem. For more information, see Bulletin 826 or the asparagus fact sheet.
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Japanese Knotweed
This shrub-like herb grows up to 10 feet in height and is considered an invasive weed in Ohio. Stems are smooth and the pointed leaves vary from broadly oval to almost triangular. The stout, hollow stems are reddish brown and the nodes are swollen, giving them a bamboo-like appearance. Flowers are greenish-white, very small, and borne in plume-like clusters in the upper leaf axils which bloom in August-September. Although its seeds are dispersed by wind, the species spreads mainly vegetatively. Once established, the plants spread by a system of underground stems.
Japanese knotweed grows in a variety of habitats, primarily open areas such as roadsides, streambanks, and woodland edges in eastern Ohio. It spreads quickly and forms dense thickets. It was introduced from Asia as an ornamental in the late 19th century because of its unusual bamboo-like growth habit.
Japanese knotweed is very difficult to control once established. Leaves may be sprayed or stems cut and treated with a systemic herbicide such as Roundup. Small populations may be dug or mowed repeatedly, but care should be taken to ensure that all plant material is disposed of and not spread further.
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Honeybees
The common Ohio variety of honey bee is the Italian, which is a golden-brown and black bee covered with short, dense hair. The forepart of the abdomen is yellow and there is some yellow among the four brown bands on the rest of the abdomen.
The queen bee is the only female in the colony capable of laying fertilized eggs. She is extremely important; without her no young bees would replace the old bees as they die. The rest of the bees pay much attention to her. There is only one queen to each bee colony, and she may live two to five years. The others in the colony must feed her, and she does none of the rest of the chores necessary to make honey or keep the hive clean.
Drones are male bees within the colony. There may be several hundred drones in the spring and summer, but they are all eliminated in the fall and winter when their services are no longer wanted. The drone develops from unfertilized eggs and exists only to fertilize or mate with young queens. He typically lives 40 to 50 days, and is bigger than either the queen or workers.
Most of the bees in the colony are worker bees. They perform most of the functions bees are known for, such as making honey and stinging for defense. Although workers are females, they cannot lay fertilized eggs. There may be as many as 60,000 workers in a colony, though the average figure for the whole year is 30,000. Workers live only 40 days in the summer, but may live several months during winter. Some gather nectar and pollen in the field; others process the honey. Usually, the workers perform their duties based on age. The younger ones are cleaners and helpers. The older, more experienced bees, are builders and do the foraging in the field.
Pesticide applications can affect bee populations dramatically. Always follow label instructions to protect our bee populations.
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Growing Peanuts
Peanuts are a fun addition to the home garden. Suggested varieties for home gardens include 'Spanish,' 'Early Spanish,' 'Virginia Improved,' and 'Jumbo Virginia.'
Peanuts are warm-season annuals that require a minimum of 120 frost free days to reach maturity (Cleveland area gardeners can usually expect 160 frost free days). Peanuts grow best in loose, well-drained soils. Plant peanuts after the danger of frost is past. Peanuts require a soil temperature of 65 for germination. Sow peanut seeds 1 to 1« inches deep and 6 to 8 inches apart. Row spacing for bunch types should be 24 inches and 36 inches for runner types.
Plants flower above ground, but the pods develop below ground. The flowers are small, bright yellow, and pea-like in appearance. After pollination and fertilization occurs, the flower stalk or peg elongates and curves downward to penetrate the soil. A week after soil penetration, the peg tip enlarges and pod and seed development begin. The fruit mature in 9 to 10 weeks with favorable temperatures and moisture conditions.
Cultivate the soil around peanut plants to control weeds and to keep the soil loose so the pegs can easily penetrate the soil surface. Cultivate shallowly to prevent damage to the peanut roots. Stop cultivation in the immediate vicinity of the plants when the pegs begin to penetrate into the soil. A 1 or 2 inch layer of mulch can be placed around plants in late June to control weeds. Any weeds that do appear can be hand pulled.
Harvest the peanuts when the foliage begins to yellow in late September or early October before the first frost. Dig up the plants with a spading fork and carefully shake off the loose soil. Cure the peanuts by hanging the plants in a warm, dry shed or garage. Protect them from mice, birds and squirrels. After the plants have dried for 1 or 2 weeks, shake off any remaining soil and pull the peanut pods from the plants. Continue to air dry the peanuts for an additional 1 or 2 weeks. Once dried, place the peanuts in mesh bags and store them in cool, well-ventilated place until roasted.
To dry roast peanuts, place the nuts (unshelled or shelled) on a cookie sheet in a preheated 350 degrees F oven for 25 to 35 minutes. Stir occasionally. Watch carefully as peanuts can scorch quickly. Nuts are done when the skin slips easily and the kernel is light brown.
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Using Manure in the Garden
Manure is the oldest fertilizer known and many gardeners feel manure is superior to mineral fertilizers. The use of manure however, does present a small risk of food-borne illness from manure contamination. Possible contaminants include salmonella, listeria, E. coli, roundworms, and tapeworms. Fortunately the risk of illness can be minimized in several ways.
Do not apply manure after the garden is planted. Always use manure that has composted properly for at least one year. Avoid the use of cat or dog manures in gardens or compost piles. Some of the parasites found in these manures may survive and remain infectious for people.
When adding composted manure or any organic matter to your garden soil, spread the material one to two inches deep in the spring or fall and then work it into the soil so that it is mixed thoroughly and uniformly with the soil.
Manure has and will continue to be an excellent garden fertilizer. As with many things we use, certain precautions should be taken to prevent potential problems.
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Plants for Shady Areas
For many gardeners, shady areas are problem spots in the home landscape. Many plants, however, perform well in shady areas. Selecting and planting shade tolerant plants can turn a shady problem site into an attractively landscaped area.
When selecting plant materials, gardeners should consider the degree of shade at the site. Some plants thrive in partial shade, others tolerate heavy shade. Areas on the north side of buildings or under the canopy of dense shade trees receive little or no direct sunlight. Only plants that grow well in full shade should be planted in these sites. Partial shade can be described as areas that receive a few hours of direct sun, but are shaded much of the day.
Many of the shade tolerant perennials are native to woodland sites. Add organic matter, such as compost or peat, and incorporate to a depth of 6 to 8 inches prior to planting. The organic matter improves soil drainage and helps to conserve soil moisture.
For a listing of perennials for shady areas see the Extension fact sheet: Perennials for Specific Sites and Uses.
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Houseplant Pesticides
Several commercial insecticide products are available for treating insect pests on houseplants. One of the most popular is insecticidal soap, because of its low toxicity to people and pets. Soap sprays can be applied with a sprayer or used with a soft cloth while washing infested leaves and stems.
Granular insecticides that you add to the soil of infested houseplants seem to have very limited effectiveness and their use is discouraged because of toxicity concerns.
On plants that regrow after pruning, removing the heavily infested stems and treating the remainder is an option. Finally, unless the plant is particularly valuable, many people find it best to throw away infested plants before the pests spread to other houseplants.
When using any pesticide, be sure that the problem you're trying to control is on the product label, and apply the chemical according to label directions.
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Cannas
Cannas add a tropical appearance to annual and perennial gardens. The large green, red or striped foliage make excellent backgrounds, temporary screens or focal points in the garden. Their bright flowers bloom from mid-summer into early fall. Cannas are available in standard (3 to 6' tall) and dwarf (2 to 3' tall) varieties. Plant firm, healthy canna rhizomes a week before the average frost; this is mid-May in our area. Select a full-sun location that contains rich, moist soil. Plant the rhizomes horizontally about 6" deep and 18" apart with the buds upright. Keep the plants well watered. Remove spent blooms to encourage more flowering.
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Tomatillo
The tomatillo (toe-ma-tea-o) or husk tomato is of Mexican origin. It produces an edible fruit enclosed in a thick husk. The husk is brown and the fruit yellowish when it is ripe. Plants grow to a height of 3 or more feet and require support like their relative the tomato.
The husk tomato has the same cultural requirements as the tomato: fertile soil, ample soil moisture and a long, warm growing season. Plant seedlingsin full sunlight after all danger of frost. Space plants about 18 inches apart in rows 3 feet apart. Mature fruit are produced in about 90 days.
The condition of the "husk" is a good indication of the freshness of the fruit. The husk should be light brown and fresh looking, not shriveled and dried. Fruit should be firm and free of defects. Fresh, ripe husk tomatoes keep under refrigeration for about 2 weeks. If longer storage is desired, remove husks and place ripe fruit in a sealed plastic bags in the refrigerator. They may also be frozen whole or sliced.
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Fertilizers
Fertilizers are identified by their analysis, such as 5-10-10 or 10-10-10. The numbers refer to the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, respectively, in the fertilizer. In a 100 pound bag of 5-10-10, there are five pounds of total nitrogen, ten pounds of available phosphorus, and ten pounds soluble potassium. A fertilizer of high analysis such as 10-10-10 is generally more expensive than a fertilizer of low analysis such as 6-8-8. Both mineral and organic fertilizers must display these numbers; mineral fertilizers are usually (but not always) higher in nutrients by weight.
In general, mineral fertilizers, such as 5-10-10, act more quickly than organic types. Since they are salts, the nutrients are available to your plants as soon as they dissolve in the soil water. Organic fertilizers, such as blood meal, bone meal and greensand, must be broken down by soil bacteria to release the nutrients.
Mineral fertilizers have the advantage of being available to the gardener and relatively inexpensive. The availability of organic fertilizers depends on the garden center.
Remember that not all garden problems are solved by the addition of fertilizer. Plants need to be planted correctly in the right location where the soil has been carefully prepared to do well in the long term. And, when adding fertilizer, it's best to do so on the basis of a soil test. For more information, see OSU Extension fact sheets on fertilizing vegetable gardens and fertilizing landscpae plants.
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Planting the Summer Vegetable Garden
I know its May and I know the garden centers have tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and other warm weather vegetables available. But my advice in a nutshell is wait! Our average frost free date is between mid-May and the twentieth, but we've experienced frosts in early June.
Tomatoes and the other frost sensitive crops do not benefit much by being planted in cool soil. They grow best in warm weather where nighttime temperatures don't fall below 55 - 60 degrees. Cool weather stresses the plant and makes it more susceptible to fungal and bacterial organisms that can cause diseases. Cool temperatures can also cause blossom drop and poor fruit set. Therefore, I recommend waiting until the end of the month or even early June before putting these plants in the ground.
But, if you just can't wait, put a couple plants in but reserve the bulk of your planting for a later date. Or, plant your frost-tolerant cabbage plants, beets, Swiss chard and carrot seeds in the meantime to satisfy your gardening need.
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Growing Eggplant
The type of eggplant grown varies with the culture. In Asia, where food is stir-fried quickly at high temperatures, long, narrow, quick-cooking varieties are preferred because they hold their shape and texture. Large, round varieties are preferred by Italian cooks. These varieties absorb other flavors and are readily incorporated into sauces. The French select purple varieties that have fine-grained flesh. The first eggplants weren't the large purple varieties frequently grown today, but rather small, white varieties with fruits shaped like eggs.
Eggplants love warm temperatures and grow best in full sun. Wait until nighttime temperatures are consistently around 55 F before transplanting outdoors in the spring. Water regularly (an inch a week) to avoid bitter tasting fruit. Eggplants are heavy feeders and benefit from regular fertilization throughout the growing season. Fertilize with a starter fertilizer at transplanting and with a sprinkling of bloodmeal, 10-10-10 or nitrate of soda at fruit set. A starter fertilizer can be made by dissolving 2 tablespoons of vegetable garden fertilizer, such as 5-10-10, in a gallon of water. Large fruited varieties should be staked so their side branches are supported to prevent them from breaking. Plants grow to a height of 2 to 3 feet.
Eggplants have their best flavor when they are harvested young. Early, repeated harvest also stimulates continuous fruit production. At harvest, the skin should be taut and shiny. Fruit that has lost its shine and has begun to change color is overripe and most likely bitter. Purple varieties take on a bronze appearance when overripe, while white eggplants begin to turn yellow. Press the fruit with your finger. If the skin springs back, the eggplant is ready for picking. Fruit that is not firm has probably been left on the plant too long. You can check fruit maturity by cutting as well. If the seeds are brown, the fruit is over-ripe and probably bitter. Look for light yellow seeds. The stems of eggplants are tough and should be cut with a knife or scissors to avoid broken branches. Some varieties even have spines and may require gloves at harvest. Harvest typically begins 55 to 65 days from transplanting.
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Serviceberry
Shadblow Serviceberry is a multi-stemmed large shrub or small tree that is in bloom now throughout Ohio. The lovely white flowers are followed by edible purplish-black berries in June. Serviceberry grows 15 to 25 feet in height, prefers sun to partial shade, and will tolerate wet soils.
Recommended by the Ohio Nursery and Landscape Association, Serviceberry is used to its best advantage in naturalistic settings. It blends in well on the edges of woodlands near ponds and stream banks. It also blends into shrub borders especially with an evergreen background. Birds love the tasty fruits.
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Controlling Tomato Blights
Tomato blights are common problems in the home garden. Heavily infected leaves eventually turn brown, die, and fall off. Good cultural practices and timely fungicide applications can help control these diseases and allow the gardener to harvest a bountiful tomato crop.
Select stocky, healthy plants at a garden center or greenhouse. Unfortunately, there are no tomato varieties resistant to the tomato blights.
Plant your tomatoes in a different location in the garden each year. Rotate crops so that tomatoes and related crops (potatoes, peppers, and eggplants) are not grown in the same area for at least 3 or 4 years. Obviously, a 3 or 4 year rotation may not be feasible for gardeners with small vegetable gardens. However, small plot gardeners should rotate as much as possible. There is no home garden treatment that effectively kills the soil pathogens in the soil.
When planting tomatoes, space plants approximately 3 feet apart. Adequate spacing allows good air movement and promotes rapid drying of plant foliage. Stake and prune your tomatoes so the foliage will dry rapidly. Gardeners are encouraged to make their own tomato cages with concrete reinforcing wire or hog wire. A wire cage 2 feet in diameter and 4 to 5 feet tall should be adequate for most tomato varieties.
In June, apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch around each tomato plant. Black plastic mulch, shredded leaves, dry grass clippings, and straw are excellent mulches. The mulch reduces the splashing of fungal spores onto plant foliage. Placing the mulch around plants in June allows the soil to warm up in the spring.
Avoid wetting tomato foliage when watering. Apply water directly to the ground around plants with drip irrigation, a soaker hose or slow running hose. If a sprinkler must be used, water in the, morning so the foliage dries quickly.
While cultural practices may help control tomato blights, fungicides may be needed. Apply fungicides labeled for the control of leaf blights on tomatoes at 7 to 14 day intervals beginning 2 to 4 weeks after transplanting. Thorough coverage is essential. Be sure to spray both the upper and lower leaf surfaces as well as the centers of the plants. Spray to the point of runoff.
If early blight occurs, remove and destroy infected leaves as they appear. Prompt removal of infected leaves may slow the progress of the, blights. At the end of the gardening season, remove and destroy all infected tomato plants. Clean up and dispose of as much tomato plant debris as possible. If late blight occurs, remove and destroy the plant immediately.
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Goldenrod in the Perennial Garden
Convincing some gardeners of the landscape value of goldenrods is difficult. Goldenrod has long been associated with causing hay fever. It is falsely accused because it produces its showy, yellow flowers abundantly during the peak allergy season. Meanwhile, ragweed's small green flowers are producing the pollen that cause our discomfort.
Goldenrods are easy to grow when planted in good garden soil in full sun. They are extremely hardy, drought tolerant, long-lived perennials. They also have few insect or disease problems and require minimal maintenance.
Most goldenrods are clump forming plants with erect to somewhat arching stems of varying heights and alternately arranged leaves. Flowers are typically yellow, but there are a few scarce white forms. Individual flowers are very small but are borne in great numbers to form flower heads of various shapes and sizes. Plants bloom over a long period in late summer and fall.
Successful use of these herbaceous perennials depends on careful plant selection. Several goldenrod species and hybrids are outstanding perennial garden plants. They are also excellent cut flowers, both fresh and dried. New cultivars and hybrids offer neat, compact growth, as well as a variety of flower forms.
Division is best done in early spring just as growth begins.
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The Ideal Tomato Transplant
When choosing a tomato transplant, or any other vegetable transplant for that matter, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, don't choose or set out a plant with even one fruit on it. Why? The first thing that a transplant has to do is develop a good root system to support fruit production later on. Developing fruits have priority over roots and shoots for the "food" the plant produces by photosynthesis. When the plant is still small, fruits will draw away carbohydrates that should go to root growth. Even extra fertilizer and water can't make up for this carbohydrate drain to the fruit when the plant is young.
The ideal tomato transplant should be 6-8 weeks old and have not lost any leaves. It should have the two cotyledons or seed leaves, those two strap-shaped leaves at the base of the stem, plus 6-9 true leaves above. The leaves should be deep green and the stem should be stocky. When removed from the container, the roots should be white, and although well-developed, soil should still be visible. That is, the plant should not be pot-bound.
If you have trouble finding tomato transplants of this quality in your garden center, you have a couple of alternatives. Raise your own transplants from seed, or buy transplants in cell-packs when they first arrive at the garden center, and repot them into larger pots to grow on indoors or in a cold frame.
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Spider Plants as a Border
If you have a variegated spider plant loaded with babies or plantlets, you have the makings of a spectacular annual border. Remove the plantlets from the mother plant now and plant them in a flat of sterile medium to get their roots started. By June they should be ready to plant out.
Spider plants will adapt to almost any growing situation. They'll look great all summer, but won't winter over. If you like the effect, pot up a few and keep them over winter in a sunny window. Chances are they will have new babies on them by spring time.
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Caring for a Newly Planted Tree
With your Arbor Day planting, your landscape job has just begun. To make sure your new tree gets off to the best possible start, here are a few maintenance rules:
1. Mulch the entire planting area with an organic amendment. The preference is hard bark nuggets as these will give longest lasting service. Mulch the area under the dripline about 2 inches deep. However, keep the mulch away from the trunk of the tree.
2. Keep the tree well watered during periods of drought. Soak the soil thoroughly once per week for the first couple of years.
3. Light pruning may be required. Pruning young branches directs growth for the future. Keep in mind that new branches will grow in the direction the buds are pointing. Select the central leader and remove any branches that compete with it. Branches that form a V-angle with the main stem are weak and should be removed. Remove branches that cross or rub against another or grow back toward the center of the tree. Remove water sprouts growing from the base of the tree and dead or dying wood.
4. Do not fertilize your new tree the first year after you plant it. Wait two years and then fertilize on a three year schedule.
5. Watch out for insect and disease problems. Use the least toxic pesticide available for treatment after the problem has been properly identified.
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Deer Damage in the Landscape
Damage caused by deer browsing on trees and shrubs can be a problem in some rural and suburban areas. The amount of damage depends upon seasonal factors, weather conditions, availability of other foods, and plant palatability. Prevention of deer browsing is difficult. Home gardeners may be able to avoid some deer damage by careful plant selection. Specialists at Cornell University have identified trees and shrubs that are rarely or seldom damaged by deer. They are: barberry, redosier dogwood, forsythia, honeylocust, beautybush, Norway Spruce, White Spruce, Colorado Blue Spruce, Mugo Pine, Austrian Pine, Scotch Pine, and lilac.
At the other end of the scale are the plants that have been observed to be frequently severely damaged: Norway Maple, Eastern Redbud, clematis, Cornelian cherry, winged euonymus, apples and crabapples, cherries and plums, rhododendrons, hybrid tea roses, yews, and arborvitae.
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Window Boxes
Window box gardens are perfect for an apartment dweller or those with temporary living arrangements. Their role has great appeal not only for gardeners who have limited space but also those with established gardens who are searching for avenues in which to expand.
Window boxes provide decoration to the often static walls of our dwellings as well as add sparkle to our gardens. The beauty of these elevated, self-contained gardens are that they are not only fun to put together, but they are easily rearranged throughout the year to reflect the mood of each season.
Some suggested possibilities for a spring window box are Pot marigold 'Bon Bon Orange,' Lobelia 'Crystal Palace,' Ivy 'Gold Child' and Pansy.
Suggestions for a summer window box are Bloodleaf , Asparagus fern, Geranium 'Orange Appeal' and Big periwinkle.
When designing a planting scheme, pay particular attention to shapes of leaves and blossoms, using texture and color to provide visual interest.
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Chrysanthemums
While chrysanthemums are easy to-grow perennials, pinching, watering, and fertilizing are necessary to insure a good flower display in the fall.
Pinch newly planted and established mums from late spring to midsummer. Remove the stem tips when the shoots are approximately 6 inches tall. New lateral branches will develop along the stems. Pinch again when these new shoots reach a length of 6 to 8 inches. Pinching can be done with your fingers or a pair of clippers. Continue pinching until late June or early July. Pinching results in bushy, compact plants with additional flowers.
Water mums thoroughly during hot, dry weather. Water deeply once a week. Avoid wetting the foliage when watering to discourage possible disease development. To conserve soil moisture, mulch chrysanthemums with 2 to 4 inches of grass clippings, wood chips, or other materials. The mulch also helps control weeds.
Encourage plant growth with a monthly application of fertilizer. Use a water soluble fertilizer according to label directions or dissolve 1 tablespoon of a complete garden fertilizer, such as 5-10-10, in one gallon of water.
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Garden Hydrangea
Bigleaf hydrangea, also known as House hydrangea and Garden hydrangea, is a popular mound-forming shrub known for its striking softball size flowers that appear in early summer. Although flower colors include red, white and pink, two popular cultivars are Nikko Blue and All Summer Beauty which exhibit bright blue flowers. The color of the blue and pink cultivars are considered to have the capacity of changing between the two colors depending on the acidity of the soil. Available aluminum in acid soils is the cause of blue flowers. Attempts to change flower color by changing soil pH do not always give satisfactory results.
Hydrangea macrophylla flowers from buds formed on previous season's growth, so any pruning should be done right after flowering. This hydrangea is hardy to Zone 5 and may be winter killed in Northern Ohio. Bigleaf hydrangea prefers full sun, and moist, well-drained soil. Leaves are large and broad, and a lustrous shade of green. Normally grows to about 4 feet, but can grow much larger under optimum conditions.
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Mulching Trees
Environmental stress is a major problem with trees in the urban landscape. Weather extremes, such as drought or extended rainy weather, that we have endured in the last 5 or 6 year weaken tree root systems and make the tree more susceptible to insect and disease attack.
In addition, many of the trees in our landscape are not adapted for city life. They evolved in forests where they enjoyed cool, moist shaded soil covered by a blanket of decaying leaves and wood. Our lawns are far different from that. Here, trees are exposed to extremes of heat and cold, drought spells and are in competition for water and nutrients with turfgrass.
What can we do to help our trees? The answer is mulch! Mulching is the most valuable practice for tree care and probably the least utilized in the home landscape.
Top choices for mulch material include wood chips or shredded bark. The depth of the mulch should be at least 3 inches after it has settled. Renew the mulch every few years to keep it at the 3 inch minimum. Cover as much of the drip zone as possible. The drip zone is the soil surface below the canopy of the tree. Finally, keep a mulch free zone a foot or two wide at the base of the trunk. Don't pile the mulch up around the trunk as so many people do. This creates a hiding place for rodents to lunch on the bark during the winter and also makes the tree more prone to infection.
Mulch will help control competition with turfgrass, conserve water, moderate soil temperature and protect the trunk from mower damage. Mulching can be thought of as a "woody plant wellness" program.
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Hostas
Hostas have earned a well-deserved reputation as reliable perennials for low-light landscape situations and as treasured foliage plants. However, their use is no longer limited to shady sites, as some new introductions tolerate full sun, and a few even prefer it.
Most hostas are grown for their foliage. A range of leaf colors, including variegated forms, plus variations of texture, leaf shape and size, provides the gardener with many wonderful choices. Hostas are also grown for their flowers that may be fragrant, and are produced from early summer to fall.
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Caring for Roses
Roses will provide the showiest display when given proper care.
Roses require watering during hot, dry weather. The actual amount and frequency depends upon our weather conditions and the soil type. In most situations, a deep soaking every week to 10 days should be sufficient. Soak the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Overhead watering should be avoided as this promotes disease problems including black spot. If overhead watering is unavoidable, the best time to water is during the morning.
A mulch will help to conserve soil moisture, moderate soil temperature and control weed growth. Suitable mulches include wood chips and shredded bark.
Roses need to fertilized three times during the growing season. The first application should be in early spring immediately after pruning. The second application should be made during the first bloom period. And, the third one made in mid to late July. Do not fertilize after July 31. Spread 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 at 2 pounds per 100 foot of row or 100 square feet. Water the roses after application.
Remove faded flowers to conserve the plant's energy and encourage more blossoms. For plants in their first growing season, remove the flower above the uppermost 3-leaflet leaf. For established roses, cut the stem back to a 5-leaflet leaf. Leave at least two 5-leaflet leaves on each shoot. Cut about 1/4 inch above an outward facing bud and leaflet with the cut made parallel to the leaflet.
A spray program is required to control disease problems. The key here is prevention. Be sure to clean up fallen leaves, irrigate without getting the leaves wet and apply a fungicide labeled for roses according to label rates and directions.
Roses may require more care than other flowers, but the results can be striking!
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Storing Surplus Seeds
Now that the bulk of garden planting is completed, don't let those surplus seeds go the waste. Moisture and high humidity can reduce the viability of seeds. Seeds store best in cold dry conditions and many vegetable seeds will remain viable for 3 - 5 years if stored properly. The best place for storage is in your refrigerator. Put the seed packets in a freezer bag, seal it, mark on the outside the types of seeds enclosed and put it in your refrigerator. When it's time to plant again, take the bag from the refrigerator and let it stand at room temperature until the bag and its contents warm up to room temperature before opening.
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Moving Houseplants Outdoors
Plants, like people, become stressed when there are changes in their environment. And with stress, just as people often get sick, plants become more susceptible to disease agents and insect attack.
As the weather begins to warm, more and more indoor gardeners are moving their houseplants to the porch or patio for the summer. This amounts to a big change in the environment for the houseplant that may cause problems for the plant later. My recommendation is that if you have a plant that's thriving indoors, you should leave it there year round. If a plant is in a weakened condition at the end of the winter and moving it outdoors always rejuvenates it enough to just make it through another winter, you probably should consider another plant for the location indoors. Obviously, your weak plant is not suitably matched to its surroundings in your home. The light, temperature, humidity, or a combination of all are not in line with the plant's needs. Matching the plant to its surroundings is a key to successful gardening indoors or out.
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Setting Tomato Transplants
Now that you have that ideal tomato transplant, how do you get it off to a good start in the garden? First, the transplant needs to be "hardened-off" or conditioned to the outside environment. Over a period of about one week, gradually expose the transplants to longer periods of direct sunlight, starting with no more than 3-4 hours of full sun. Hold back on watering, but don't let the transplants dry out. Cut back the fertilizer rate by half, but don't stop feeding altogether.
Set the plants just a little deeper than the soil line in the container, up to the first true leaves. Although tomato plants have the ability to grow new roots all along their stems, there is no real advantage to setting the transplant deeply unless they are leggy and overgrown. Don't remove any leaves at all. Even when planting deeply and some of the leaves are buried, they are still important as a carbohydrate source to the plant.
Apply about a cup of liquid starter fertilizer to each transplant at planting. Starter fertilizers are high in phosphorous, which promotes root growth. Phosphorous in the soil is not readily available to plants when soils are cool. In addition, a mineral fertilizer has an advantage over organic fertilizers in cool soils. Soil bacteria needed to convert the organic form to a useable form for the plant are not very active when the soil temperature is low. The mineral fertilizer will be available to the plant as soon as it dissolves in soil water.
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Cross-Pollination and Vegetable Quality
At Extension, questions similar to the following are often hear. "My cantaloupes were not as sweet last year. A friend said it was because I planted them too close to my cucumbers, and they cross-pollinated producing fruit that tasted more like the cukes than the melons." Could this really happen?
No. Since the portion of the plant you eat is the fruit that is formed from tissue of the plant, its flavor is genetically determined by that plant. A change in fruit sweetness by cross-pollination is not possible. Vegetable flowers will produce fruit only like the plant they are growing on, regardless of the pollen used to fertilize the flowers. But, the seeds inside the plant, if collected and planted next season, can show such changes. Since the flesh of your cantaloupe is not the seed, its taste would not be affected by pollination. But if you grow plants from seed saved from that fruit, they would be noticeably different from the parent and most likely not as desirable as the parent.
Immature melon fruits can taste like cucumbers. The sweetness of melons depends on the sugar content which depends on the length of time the fruit is attached to the stem and the photosynthesizing of the plant leaves which is affected by the temperature and soil moisture. Be sure to grow the crop properly and harvest it when it is fully mature.
If the part of the plant you eat is the seed, then its characteristics are determined by both parents. An example is corn which is subject to visible cross-pollination effects because the corn kernels are actually the seeds of the corn plant. Therefore, a cross between field corn and sweet corn gives rise to tougher, less sweet kernels.
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